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991.
The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained. 相似文献
992.
Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9
While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century,
intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical
exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean
waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper
presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and
long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state
of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
993.
环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟 总被引:10,自引:0,他引:10
用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M2分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M2分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏. 相似文献
994.
用模糊集合观点讨论水团的有关概念 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
本文将划分水团的基本原则,概括为水团内部特征的相对均一性及其与外部海水的明显差异性。用模糊集合讨论了水型、水团和水系等有关概念。提出了用模糊集合观点定义水团及其核心、本体、边界与混合区的建议,并以1979年8月黄海和东海表层为例,给出了各水团的隶属函数。计算了其核心、本体、边界、混合区及贴近度,按其模糊性排出了顺序。 相似文献
995.
996.
In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases. 相似文献
997.
A.F. Velegrakis M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas Th. KarambasK. Dimou Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007
This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms. 相似文献
998.
We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary. 相似文献
999.
The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup. 相似文献
1000.
栉孔扇贝升温育苗高产技术 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
在栉孔扇贝升温育苗中,主要改进了亲贝升温促熟培育、产卵与孵化、选幼、幼虫培育等主要技术措施,在105m~3水体中,培育出商品苗85,000,000多粒,取得了可喜的经济效益。 相似文献